Plunging does not always make it all the way around. Rattles on the way up

Marquee backlight it out. Could be bulb, backlight, or fuse.

Coin mechs are missing. I’m looking into replacement parts.

Ground prong on the electrical cord looks sketchy, cord should be replaced

Some of the connectors were replaced at some point and weren’t done correctly. One is split in half and missing the key pin. One is upside down and loose. A few are missing their keys. Check all the molex’s just to ensure they’re where they should be and keyed.

5v rail measures at 4.8v even after replacing open rectifier. Stable voltage, but may cause issues down the line. Most likely due to filter cap.

Addams Family is looking grubby. Make it shine!

Regular cleaning

To keep play fun and to minimize wear and tear, we regularly clean and wax pinball machines. Here’s how:

• remove the glass
• remove all balls
• using only wax and a microfiber cloth, clean and wax the entire playfield
• using Novus 1, clean the plastics
• check every elastic; replace if cracked or stretching, otherwise clean
• clean all the verticals, including targets
• replace any dead bulbs
• tighten any loose screws
• check flipper strength
• replace the balls with new ones
• play a test game
• wearing gloves, clean both sides of the playfield glass
• close it up

Left flipper fuse blows on fliptronics board. Unsure of why yet. Measuring coils on flipper showed less than an ohm, where it should be around 4. Everything was connected so it can’t be confirmed what though. Possible suspects, diode on solenoid, something on fliptronics board, coil itself

General illumination wiring has been monkeyed with in weird ways on jumpers J120 and J121. Broken Molex connectors.

With Caleb and Ben

Right flipper quite weak. Left flipper was experiencing the same issue and one (or more) of the following steps resolve:

1. clean coil sleeve
2. recenter plunger in solenoid.
3. clean re-gap and reposition end of stroke switch
4. clean opto switches

Lots of flasher bulbs seem to be out when performing in test mode. Also some controlled playfield lights are out, top inlanes were the first I noticed

Refuses to start again

Ball does not eject. Might be lost somewhere in the machine?

Game keeps adding players after 4 players.

Machine doesnt end game after 5 balls. It keeps count of the balls played correctly but would seemingly let you play infinite balls in a game

intake checklist

When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.

As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.

setting it up

• match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
• stand the main cabinet up on its back
• attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
• with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
• with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
• with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
• remove the pinball thing
• with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in

before powering on

• clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
• if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
• vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
• check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
• use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
• check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
• check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
• look for damaged or burnt components
• if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
• look for loose/floating wires
• look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
• look for loose or disconnected cables
• if necessary, untangle cables
• look for loose nuts, posts, etc
• look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
• if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones

If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.

first power on

• know where the fire extinguisher is

• plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
• be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
• turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
• look at
  • general illumination
  • controlled illumination
  • displays
  • initial startup cycle

If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.

first game

• replace the ball(s) with new ones
• start the game, adding credits if needed
• launch the ball and try it out
• look for
  • smooth rolling
  • all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
  • lights working
  • switches working
  • all active elements working
  • ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
  • correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
  • correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
  • switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)

You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.

detail work

These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.

• thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
• replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
• check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
  • if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
  • if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
  • replace #44s with #47s
  • if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
• look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
• look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
• check every switch, possibly using a self test
• replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
• if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
• make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
• make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
• check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
• level the machine

settings

If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:

• standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
• free play
• correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
• if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
• a reasonable volume level
• correct date and time
• connected to our wifi
• Insider Connected activated for our account

final cleaning

Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.

• clean the legs
• clean the main cabinet
• clean the backbox
• clean the lock bar
• clean the backglass
• clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)

finishing up

• any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
• change the machine status to Good

High scores don’t get added

Some of the lights on the back-box appear to be out.
One of the flipper-looking plastic pieces on the playfield is loose and the ball can get stuck.
We should also test that each bumper works when the ball makes contact

Flipper buttons are dirty/crusty. Could use a thorough cleaning.

Rubber Pad should be replaced. Worn down, metal exposed.

Ideal temporary fix: Rotate the Pad 180⁰
Problem: The arm would not budge from the rod. I did not want to force it

Plan B Temp Fix: Electric Tape was added to prevent exposed metal

Center ramp gate switch kindy sticky/maybe bent. Causing ball to slow down when hitting the ramp so you can’t make it up the ramp. Needs to be checked out/maybe just realigned a bit

Rollover 6 isn’t always detecting the ball

There are a few remaining caps on the main board to change out. Replace when stock comes in

Current to-do

• Replace back panel #63 bulbs
• Replace corkscrew and cyclone jump #63 bulbs

When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.

As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.

before powering on

• clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
• if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
• vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
• check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
• use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
• check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
• check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
• look for damaged or burnt components
• if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
• look for loose/floating wires
• look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
• look for loose or disconnected cables
• if necessary, untangle cables
• look for loose nuts, posts, etc
• look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
• if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones

If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.

first power on

• know where the fire extinguisher is

• plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
• be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
• turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
• look at
  • general illumination
  • controlled illumination
  • displays
  • initial startup cycle

If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.

first game

• replace the ball(s) with new ones
• start the game, adding credits if needed
• launch the ball and try it out
• look for
  • smooth rolling
  • all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
  • lights working
  • switches working
  • all active elements working
  • ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
  • correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
  • correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
  • switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)

You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.

detail work

These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.

• thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
• replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
• check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
  • if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
  • if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
  • replace #44s with #47s
  • if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
• look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
• look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
• check every switch, possibly using a self test
• replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
• if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
• make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
• make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
• check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
• level the machine

settings

If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:

• standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
• free play
• correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
• if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
• a reasonable volume level
• correct date and time
• connected to our wifi
• Insider Connected activated for our account

final cleaning

Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.

• clean the legs
• clean the main cabinet
• clean the backbox
• clean the lock bar
• clean the backglass
• clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)

finishing up

• any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
• change the machine status to Good

Game had a modification that increases player speed

Game repeatedly scores 10 points, possibly a stuck switch somewhere?

Still needs some LED lamps and flashers replaced. They’re on order.

Back left rollover light is out. Machine is still totally playable though (will register when you roll over it, such as the skill shot).

One of the PC fans sounds sick on startup. Let’s replace it before it fails.

Right lane above the bumpers not registering.
One bulb out.

Spotlight is in the way of ball path on left side wire ramp

Replace power cord

Bell(s) not working

Horse 1 doesn’t fully reset.

Maximum number of credits appears to be 1, but ROM and the DIP switches theoretically support max of 5, 8, 10 or 15. Not just 1. It would be good to understand why this is happening.

This is quite possibly related to the accumulator problem and possible RAM problem discussed in https://flipfix.theflip.museum/problem-reports/75/

http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_1

Battery probably needs changing. We think the battery is this white cigarette.

Accumulators / bookkeeping do not seem to work. Specifically, even after tilts and games, the machine reports zero tilts and zero games.

My chief suspect at the moment is bad RAM

Replace the power supply’s C1 5/12 volt Filter Cap

“…Unfortunately C1 at 2900 mfd (or 4700 mfd) is way too small of a filter cap, and the fact that this cap is 30 years old isn’t helping things either. Replace this cap with a new 6800 mfd to 10,000 mfd 16 volt or higher filter capacitor.
When replacing this capacitor it is NOT necessary to take the whole power supply apart! Just cut of the old capacitor off the power supply board, leaving the old cap leads as long as possible…”

-from http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/

Spontaneous reboots

Game was abandoned because ball was stuck. Looks like there was some sort of missing post. I swapped in a spare star post.

Fixing this requires figuring out what used to be there, getting one, and putting it in

One playfield illumination bulb lamp (under a bumper) is out. Replace when machine is being worked on for something more major

No boot. Emergency auto reboot tries every 20 seconds. Battery acid damage to U5 diode and maybe a couple resistors on the CPU board. Likely damage to some traces, so they would also need repair.

intake checklist

When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.

As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.

setting it up

• match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
• stand the main cabinet up on its back
• attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
• with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
• with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
• with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
• remove the pinball thing
• with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in

before powering on

• clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
• if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
• vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
• check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
• use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
• check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
• check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
• look for damaged or burnt components
• if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
• look for loose/floating wires
• look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
• look for loose or disconnected cables
• if necessary, untangle cables
• look for loose nuts, posts, etc
• look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
• if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones

If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.

first power on

• know where the fire extinguisher is

• plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
• be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
• turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
• look at
  • general illumination
  • controlled illumination
  • displays
  • initial startup cycle

If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.

first game

• replace the ball(s) with new ones
• start the game, adding credits if needed
• launch the ball and try it out
• look for
  • smooth rolling
  • all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
  • lights working
  • switches working
  • all active elements working
  • ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
  • correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
  • correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
  • switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)

You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.

detail work

These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.

• thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
• replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
• check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
  • if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
  • if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
  • replace #44s with #47s
  • if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
• look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
• look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
• check every switch, possibly using a self test
• replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
• if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
• make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
• make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
• check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
• level the machine

settings

If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:

• standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
• free play
• correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
• if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
• a reasonable volume level
• correct date and time
• connected to our wifi
• Insider Connected activated for our account

final cleaning

Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.

• clean the legs
• clean the main cabinet
• clean the backbox
• clean the lock bar
• clean the backglass
• clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)

finishing up

• any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
• change the machine status to Good

Scoring does not work as it should. For example, Player 2 scores that should increment by 500 when the center target is hit may only increment by 300. Other scoring sensors give a sound or reaction but no score increment.

Top left rollover switch appears to be triggering the tilt relay

When out of credits, white bar depresses and opens both leaf springs shown in photo. To get infinite credits, must keep connection going. Seems like best option may be to desolder the solenoids so the wheel stops spinning? Other suggestions were to solder the leaf springs connections together, but that allows the wheel to spin which may break something. Unsure how to proceed

Some backbox lights are out, for example Ball 2. Note: there are instructions inside the backbox for getting at its display front.

intake checklist

When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.

As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.

setting it up

• match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
• stand the main cabinet up on its back
• attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
• with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
• with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
• with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
• remove the pinball thing
• with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in

before powering on

• clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
• if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
• vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
• check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
• use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
• check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
• check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
• look for damaged or burnt components
• if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
• look for loose/floating wires
• look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
• look for loose or disconnected cables
• if necessary, untangle cables
• look for loose nuts, posts, etc
• look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
• if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones

If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.

first power on

• know where the fire extinguisher is

• plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
• be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
• turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
• look at
  • general illumination
  • controlled illumination
  • displays
  • initial startup cycle

If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.

first game

• replace the ball(s) with new ones
• start the game, adding credits if needed
• launch the ball and try it out
• look for
  • smooth rolling
  • all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
  • lights working
  • switches working
  • all active elements working
  • ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
  • correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
  • correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
  • switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)

You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.

detail work

These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.

• thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
• replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
• check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
  • if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
  • if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
  • replace #44s with #47s
  • if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
• look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
• look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
• check every switch, possibly using a self test
• replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
• if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
• make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
• make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
• check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
• level the machine

settings

If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:

• standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
• free play
• correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
• if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
• a reasonable volume level
• correct date and time
• connected to our wifi
• Insider Connected activated for our account

final cleaning

Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.

• clean the legs
• clean the main cabinet
• clean the backbox
• clean the lock bar
• clean the backglass
• clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)

finishing up

• any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
• change the machine status to Good

Broken springs. Most are 1/4in diameter. The side springs are 4” not including the end loops

Note some springs are mounted on only one end, as ball guides.

Solenoid cores are rusty

Entry gate is corroded and sticky

Coin insert assembly is stuck

intake checklist

When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.

As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.

setting it up

• match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
• stand the main cabinet up on its back
• attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
• with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
• with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
• with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
• remove the pinball thing
• with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in

before powering on

• clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
• if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
• vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
• check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
• use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
• check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
• check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
• look for damaged or burnt components
• if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
• look for loose/floating wires
• look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
• look for loose or disconnected cables
• if necessary, untangle cables
• look for loose nuts, posts, etc
• look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
• if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones

If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.

first power on

• know where the fire extinguisher is

• plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
• be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
• turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
• look at
  • general illumination
  • controlled illumination
  • displays
  • initial startup cycle

If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.

first game

• replace the ball(s) with new ones
• start the game, adding credits if needed
• launch the ball and try it out
• look for
  • smooth rolling
  • all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
  • lights working
  • switches working
  • all active elements working
  • ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
  • correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
  • correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
  • switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)

You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.

detail work

These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.

• thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
• replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
• check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
  • if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
  • if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
  • replace #44s with #47s
  • if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
• look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
• look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
• check every switch, possibly using a self test
• replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
• if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
• make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
• make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
• check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
• level the machine

settings

If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:

• standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
• free play
• correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
• if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
• a reasonable volume level
• correct date and time
• connected to our wifi
• Insider Connected activated for our account

final cleaning

Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.

• clean the legs
• clean the main cabinet
• clean the backbox
• clean the lock bar
• clean the backglass
• clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)

finishing up

• any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
• change the machine status to Good

intake checklist

When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.

As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.

setting it up

• match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
• stand the main cabinet up on its back
• attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
• with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
• with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
• with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
• remove the pinball thing
• with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in

before powering on

• clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
• if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
• vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
• check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
• use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
• check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
• check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
• look for damaged or burnt components
• if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
• look for loose/floating wires
• look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
• look for loose or disconnected cables
• if necessary, untangle cables
• look for loose nuts, posts, etc
• look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
• if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones

If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.

first power on

• know where the fire extinguisher is

• plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
• be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
• turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
• look at
  • general illumination
  • controlled illumination
  • displays
  • initial startup cycle

If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.

first game

• replace the ball(s) with new ones
• start the game, adding credits if needed
• launch the ball and try it out
• look for
  • smooth rolling
  • all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
  • lights working
  • switches working
  • all active elements working
  • ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
  • correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
  • correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
  • switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)

You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.

detail work

These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.

• thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
• replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
• check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
  • if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
  • if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
  • replace #44s with #47s
  • if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
• look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
• look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
• check every switch, possibly using a self test
• replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
• if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
• make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
• make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
• check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
• level the machine

settings

If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:

• standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
• free play
• correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
• if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
• a reasonable volume level
• correct date and time
• connected to our wifi
• Insider Connected activated for our account

final cleaning

Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.

• clean the legs
• clean the main cabinet
• clean the backbox
• clean the lock bar
• clean the backglass
• clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)

finishing up

• any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
• change the machine status to Good

intake checklist

When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.

As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.

setting it up

• match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
• stand the main cabinet up on its back
• attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
• with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
• with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
• with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
• remove the pinball thing
• with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in

before powering on

• clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
• if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
• vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
• check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
• use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
• check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
• check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
• look for damaged or burnt components
• if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
• look for loose/floating wires
• look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
• look for loose or disconnected cables
• if necessary, untangle cables
• look for loose nuts, posts, etc
• look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
• if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones

If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.

first power on

• know where the fire extinguisher is

• plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
• be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
• turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
• look at
  • general illumination
  • controlled illumination
  • displays
  • initial startup cycle

If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.

first game

• replace the ball(s) with new ones
• start the game, adding credits if needed
• launch the ball and try it out
• look for
  • smooth rolling
  • all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
  • lights working
  • switches working
  • all active elements working
  • ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
  • correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
  • correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
  • switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)

You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.

detail work

These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.

• thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
• replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
• check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
  • if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
  • if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
  • replace #44s with #47s
  • if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
• look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
• look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
• check every switch, possibly using a self test
• replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
• if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
• make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
• make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
• check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
• level the machine

settings

If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:

• standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
• free play
• correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
• if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
• a reasonable volume level
• correct date and time
• connected to our wifi
• Insider Connected activated for our account

final cleaning

Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.

• clean the legs
• clean the main cabinet
• clean the backbox
• clean the lock bar
• clean the backglass
• clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)

finishing up

• any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
• change the machine status to Good