Coin-op
Prints the wrong letters sometimes. Internal mechanisms probably need alignment or have suffered from wear.
Shooter spring has broken a bit and is too short. That puts the plunger tip just far enough forward that the machine can’t tell if there’s a ball in the trough.
Ball is occasionally getting stuck in the scoop (not ejecting). Also ball has gotten stuck at the bottom of the out lane.
Some of the connectors were replaced at some point and weren’t done correctly. One is split in half and missing the key pin. One is upside down and loose. A few are missing their keys. Check all the molex’s just to ensure they’re where they should be and keyed.
5v rail measures at 4.8v even after replacing open rectifier. Stable voltage, but may cause issues down the line. Most likely due to filter cap.
Museum
Ball often gets stuck on a ramp unload onto a return lane
Spotlight is in the way of ball path on left side wire ramp
Glass and (and possibly playfield) could use cleaning.
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys37/manuals/wms7-hyperball.pdf
See page three of manual for glass removal instructions
Wheel inside keeps spining similar to stock car except it starts spinning upon turning the game on (does not need to be in a game to start), cause score chime to repeatedly ring
Even after power cycling, machine gets in an endless loop of launching balls. It started while I was playing and the machine clearly thought only one ball was in play. I’m guessing a bad switch somewhere.
Hitting the clock spinning flipper in the center causes motor to spin indefinitely. Does not score.
100 point targets also do not score.
After first ball of game drains, machine does not initiate the next ball and the cabinet makes a ticking sound
Litany of issues:
- Ball can get stuck in the right lane as pictured, resetting the game will eject the ball
- Several rollovers and pop bumpers not scoring as they should.
- Cannot add more than one player
- Game sometimes starts with flippers/playfield inactive
TILT light is constantly on, though the machine never appears to be in tilt state
Game keeps adding players after 4 players.
Machine doesnt end game after 5 balls. It keeps count of the balls played correctly but would seemingly let you play infinite balls in a game
Shooter rod tip broke apart
Ball is struggling to launch all the way (weak) on the first try. Usually fine on the 2nd attempt. Machine still playable.
One of the PC fans sounds sick on startup. Let’s replace it before it fails.
Some lamps do not work after being replaced with new 555 bulbs (multiball arrow, 5 million targets)
Game does not detect power ball as being installed, no power ball mode when beginning a ball with the power ball.
Machine needs to be leveled.
Backbox lock needs to be changed to standard. I put the key to the existing lock in the machine’s coin box
Restarting/power cycling the machine does not reset the game in progress
Happened to notice a loose wire when i was lifting the playfield up. Didn’t investigate much, not sure what the leaf switch it goes to controls
Sprites start looking corrupted after playing for a few levels. Rebooting/power cycling the game fixes it temporarily.
Game had a modification that increases player speed
Lock bar not sitting flush on the machine. Potentially normal for the machine, consider sanding down the lock bar so it sits flush.
Large score wheel sometimes doesn’t fully reset.
Horse 1 doesn’t fully reset.
Replace wire nuts on coin door with better connectors
Autofire plunger will get stuck in the upright position occasionally. I think it can get in the way of the right flipper as well? Pushing the right flipper button will slightly move the plunger, and I had the flipper switch and button get dislocated.
I want to try and rise the back feet up slightly and try using a plastic slug coin so people can consistently play. I will also make a sign asking people to be gentle with this game for our opening weekend
Game should have 10 balls according to text on bottom left, only 8 are present. Not sure if this is intentional.
2000 bonus score lamp is dead
One playfield illumination bulb lamp (under a bumper) is out. Replace when machine is being worked on for something more major
Game repeatedly scores 10 points, possibly a stuck switch somewhere?
Still needs some LED lamps and flashers replaced. They’re on order.
Maximum number of credits appears to be 1, but ROM and the DIP switches theoretically support max of 5, 8, 10 or 15. Not just 1. It would be good to understand why this is happening.
This is quite possibly related to the accumulator problem and possible RAM problem discussed in https://flipfix.theflip.museum/problem-reports/75/
http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_1
Accumulators / bookkeeping do not seem to work. Specifically, even after tilts and games, the machine reports zero tilts and zero games.
My chief suspect at the moment is bad RAM
Replace the power supply’s C1 5/12 volt Filter Cap
“…Unfortunately C1 at 2900 mfd (or 4700 mfd) is way too small of a filter cap, and the fact that this cap is 30 years old isn’t helping things either. Replace this cap with a new 6800 mfd to 10,000 mfd 16 volt or higher filter capacitor.
When replacing this capacitor it is NOT necessary to take the whole power supply apart! Just cut of the old capacitor off the power supply board, leaving the old cap leads as long as possible…”
There are a few remaining caps on the main board to change out. Replace when stock comes in
Current to-do
- Replace back panel #63 bulbs
- Replace corkscrew and cyclone jump #63 bulbs
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good
intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
setting it up
- match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- stand the main cabinet up on its back
- attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
- with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
- with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
- remove the pinball thing
- with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good
Workshop
No boot. Emergency auto reboot tries every 20 seconds. Battery acid damage to U5 diode and maybe a couple resistors on the CPU board. Likely damage to some traces, so they would also need repair.
intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
setting it up
- match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- stand the main cabinet up on its back
- attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
- with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
- with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
- remove the pinball thing
- with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good
intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
setting it up
- match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- stand the main cabinet up on its back
- attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
- with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
- with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
- remove the pinball thing
- with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good
intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
setting it up
- match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- stand the main cabinet up on its back
- attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
- with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
- with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
- remove the pinball thing
- with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good
Storage
Broken springs. Most are 1/4in diameter. The side springs are 4” not including the end loops
Note some springs are mounted on only one end, as ball guides.
Solenoid cores are rusty
intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
setting it up
- match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- stand the main cabinet up on its back
- attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
- with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
- with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
- remove the pinball thing
- with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good
intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
setting it up
- match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- stand the main cabinet up on its back
- attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
- with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
- with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
- remove the pinball thing
- with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good
intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we’re told it’s perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That’s usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they’re obvious or if you’re going to take care of them right away, there’s no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
setting it up
- match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- stand the main cabinet up on its back
- attach the front two legs, making sure they’re snug
- with two people, tip it forward so it’s resting on its front legs
- with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they’re snug
- remove the pinball thing
- with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
before powering on
- clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- look for damaged or burnt components
- if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- look for loose/floating wires
- look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- look for loose or disconnected cables
- if necessary, untangle cables
- look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you’re pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you’re ready to plug it in and turn it on.
first power on
- know where the fire extinguisher is
- plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn’t come out
- be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- look at
- general illumination
- controlled illumination
- displays
- initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you’re ready to start a game.
first game
- replace the ball(s) with new ones
- start the game, adding credits if needed
- launch the ball and try it out
- look for
- smooth rolling
- all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- lights working
- switches working
- all active elements working
- ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you’re working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
detail work
These will take a while, but they’re worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it’s much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
- if it’s an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
- if it’s dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
- replace #44s with #47s
- if it’s dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- check every switch, possibly using a self test
- replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it’s locked the key slot is horizontal
- if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn’t one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- make sure the backglass doesn’t rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn’t easily come off
- check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- level the machine
settings
If you haven’t done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- free play
- correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn’t matter for free play, but people like it)
- a reasonable volume level
- correct date and time
- connected to our wifi
- Insider Connected activated for our account
final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it’s time for a final cleaning.
- clean the legs
- clean the main cabinet
- clean the backbox
- clean the lock bar
- clean the backglass
- clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don’t smudge it before putting it back)
finishing up
- any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- change the machine status to Good