Fixing
Museum
Problem:
Ball does not eject. Might be lost somewhere in the machine?
Fixing
Workshop
Problem:
When out of credits, white bar depresses and opens both leaf springs shown in photo. To get infinite credits, must keep connection going. Seems like best option may be to desolder the solenoids so the wheel stops spinning? Other suggestions were to solder the leaf springs connections together, but that allows the wheel to spin which may break something. Unsure how to proceed
Fixing
Museum
Problem:
Lots of flasher bulbs seem to be out when performing in test mode. Also some controlled playfield lights are out, top inlanes were the first I noticed
Fixing
Workshop
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [x] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [x] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [x] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [x] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [x] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [x] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [x] remove the pinball thing
- [x] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [x] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [x] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [x] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [x] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [x] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [x] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Fixing
Storage
Problem:
Test score wheel rotation. Does it rotate smoothly? Solenoid is obviously bad
Fixing
Workshop
Broken
Museum
Problem:
Refuses to start again
Broken
Museum
Unknown
Workshop
Problem:
No boot. Emergency auto reboot tries every 20 seconds. Battery acid damage to U5 diode and maybe a couple resistors on the CPU board. Likely damage to some traces, so they would also need repair.
Unknown
Storage
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [ ] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [ ] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [ ] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [ ] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [ ] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] remove the pinball thing
- [ ] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [ ] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [ ] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [ ] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [ ] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [ ] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [ ] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Unknown
Storage
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [ ] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [ ] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [ ] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [ ] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [ ] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] remove the pinball thing
- [ ] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [ ] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [ ] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [ ] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [ ] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [ ] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [ ] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Unknown
Storage
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [ ] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [ ] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [ ] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [ ] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [ ] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] remove the pinball thing
- [ ] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [ ] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [ ] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [ ] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [ ] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [ ] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [ ] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Unknown
Museum
Unknown
Museum
Good
Museum
Problem:
Game was abandoned because ball was stuck. Looks like there was some sort of missing post. I swapped in a spare star post.
Fixing this requires figuring out what used to be there, getting one, and putting it in
Good
Coin-op
Problem:
Plunging does not always make it all the way around. Rattles on the way up
Good
Museum
Problem:
High scores don't get added
Good
Coin-op
Problem:
Some of the connectors were replaced at some point and weren't done correctly. One is split in half and missing the key pin. One is upside down and loose. A few are missing their keys. Check all the molex's just to ensure they're where they should be and keyed.
Good
Coin-op
Problem:
Marquee backlight it out. Could be bulb, backlight, or fuse.
Good
Museum
Problem:
Some of the lights on the back-box appear to be out.
One of the flipper-looking plastic pieces on the playfield is loose and the ball can get stuck.
We should also test that each bumper works when the ball makes contact
Good
Museum
Problem:
Flipper buttons are dirty/crusty. Could use a thorough cleaning.
Good
Museum
Problem:
One playfield illumination bulb lamp (under a bumper) is out. Replace when machine is being worked on for something more major
Good
Museum
Problem:
Center ramp gate switch kindy sticky/maybe bent. Causing ball to slow down when hitting the ramp so you can't make it up the ramp. Needs to be checked out/maybe just realigned a bit
Good
Museum
Problem:
Game had a modification that increases player speed
Good
Museum
Problem:
Game repeatedly scores 10 points, possibly a stuck switch somewhere?
Good
Museum
Problem:
Back left rollover light is out. Machine is still totally playable though (will register when you roll over it, such as the skill shot).
Good
Museum
Problem:
Spotlight is in the way of ball path on left side wire ramp
Good
Museum
Problem:
Replace power cord
Good
Museum
Problem:
Bell(s) not working
Good
Museum
Problem:
Replace the power supply's C1 5/12 volt Filter Cap
"...Unfortunately C1 at 2900 mfd (or 4700 mfd) is way too small of a filter cap, and the fact that this cap is 30 years old isn't helping things either. Replace this cap with a new 6800 mfd to 10,000 mfd 16 volt or higher filter capacitor.
When replacing this capacitor it is NOT necessary to take the whole power supply apart! Just cut of the old capacitor off the power supply board, leaving the old cap leads as long as possible..."
-from http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/
Good
Museum
Problem:
Spontaneous reboots
Good
Museum
Good
Coin-op
Good
Coin-op
Good
Museum
Good
Museum
Good
Museum
Good
Museum
Good
Museum