Fixing
Workshop
Problem:
Flippers still appear to be active when in attract mode and a game is not active. Hand full things can cause this but flipper control solenoid and the solenoid pre-driver (I think) highlighted in blue are probably strong candidates for where the issue is.
Fixing
Museum
Problem:
In an attempt to address bug #312, oliver and i replaced switch 28. Upon attempting to test the new switch found all of column 2 in the matrix (which had previously working) stuck open.
1) double checked polarity of the diode on the replaced switch - OK
2) visually inspected the connection of the green-red wire that chains together column 2 in the matrix- connection of green-red to all the switches looked ok
I think the next step is to start looking at pins in the back-box maybe……
Column 2 in the matrix runs to j206
Fixing
Workshop
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [x] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [x] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [x] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [x] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [x] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [x] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [x] remove the pinball thing
- [x] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [x] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [x] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [x] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [x] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [x] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [x] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Fixing
Workshop
Broken
Museum
Problem:
Customer reported left flipper not working at all and a “smokey” smell. I turned off the machine.
Broken
Museum
Problem:
Plunger spring is having issues again
Broken
Museum
Problem:
William tested continuity in the 120V circuit, tracing the path through Relay U. Here we found one of the soldered connections loose. We found that removing all 3 relay brackets, then removing their solenoids, allows best access to the leaf switch connections.
In soldering the loose connection, we knocked several others loose. The whole machine was probably poorly constructed 60 years ago.
In any case, after all that resoldering, we are in a state where the machine does not start. We ended up finding the Yellow-Black to Red-Blue connector on the bottom of Relay U, one of the ones we had resoldered, is short all the time now. We don't think the problem is the leaf switch, but we are honestly not sure.
Broken
Museum
Problem:
Litany of issues:
- Ball can get stuck in the right lane as pictured, resetting the game will eject the ball
- Several rollovers and pop bumpers not scoring as they should.
- Cannot add more than one player
- Game sometimes starts with flippers/playfield inactive
Broken
Workshop
Problem:
No boot. Emergency auto reboot tries every 20 seconds. Battery acid damage to U5 diode and maybe a couple resistors on the CPU board. Likely damage to some traces, so they would also need repair.
Broken
Storage
Problem:
Test score wheel rotation. Does it rotate smoothly? Solenoid is obviously bad
Broken
Workshop
Broken
Storage
Unknown
Storage
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [ ] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [ ] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [ ] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [ ] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [ ] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] remove the pinball thing
- [ ] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [ ] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [ ] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [ ] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [ ] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [ ] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [ ] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Unknown
Coin-op
Problem:
Prints the wrong letters sometimes. Internal mechanisms probably need alignment or have suffered from wear.
Unknown
Storage
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [ ] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [ ] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [ ] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [ ] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [ ] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] remove the pinball thing
- [ ] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [ ] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [ ] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [ ] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [ ] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [ ] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [ ] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Unknown
Storage
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [ ] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [ ] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [ ] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [ ] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [ ] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [ ] remove the pinball thing
- [ ] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [ ] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [ ] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [ ] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [ ] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [ ] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [ ]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [ ] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [ ] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [ ] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [ ] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [ ] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [ ] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Good
Museum
Problem:
Guest reported right flipper sticking
Good
Museum
Problem:
During guest’s 2nd game, the volume shot up to max on its own. I went in and turned the volume down, bur the volume menu didn’t indicate an extremely loud volume (it was at around 9 or 10). Turned it down to 8. Monitoring this.
Good
Museum
Problem:
The left flipper does remain slightly stronger than the right. I spent a lot of time focued on the solenoid alignment and the eos switch, i forgot to look at the flipper button leaf switch, should be checked for charring/corrosion, but not pressing
Good
Coin-op
Problem:
Scoop kickouts are really weak and slow
Good
Museum
Problem:
1000-point chime isn't sounding
Good
Museum
Problem:
S relay occasionally gets wedged, causing machine not to start. Flipping it back and forth (with a wooden stick, please) gets things going again. It needs more careful adjustment.
Good
Museum
Problem:
Number of balls stuck at the top of playfield
Good
Museum
Problem:
Landing a ball into “Returns out balls” does not return the out balls
Good
Museum
Problem:
Led fell out of red flasher on right side of the playfield
Good
Museum
Problem:
Cracked plastic over the left slingshot
Good
Museum
Problem:
While no game is being played, periodically seems to be cycling through some components getting triggered, as if a ball is trying to launch. It appears that the plunger is automatically going off. It’s hard to tell if any other component is getting triggered as I haven’t been able to time it to watch for it to happen.
Good
Museum
Problem:
Dial no longer scores
Good
Museum
Problem:
Shooter rod tip broke apart
Good
Museum
Problem:
9 and L playfield lights out. Previously this was a loose connection
Good
Museum
Problem:
Sprites start looking corrupted after playing for a few levels. Rebooting/power cycling the game fixes it temporarily.
Good
Coin-op
Problem:
Still having issues registering quarters. Customer put 2 in and it only registered 1. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news! Unsure if this should be marked as minor or major.
Good
Workshop
Problem:
Make it more obvious what is happening here / fix the chaos
Good
Museum
Problem:
I want to try and rise the back feet up slightly and try using a plastic slug coin so people can consistently play. I will also make a sign asking people to be gentle with this game for our opening weekend
Good
Coin-op
Problem:
Plunging does not always make it all the way around. Rattles on the way up
Good
Museum
Problem:
One playfield illumination bulb lamp (under a bumper) is out. Replace when machine is being worked on for something more major
Good
Museum
Problem:
Replace power cord
Good
Museum
Problem:
Replace the power supply's C1 5/12 volt Filter Cap
"...Unfortunately C1 at 2900 mfd (or 4700 mfd) is way too small of a filter cap, and the fact that this cap is 30 years old isn't helping things either. Replace this cap with a new 6800 mfd to 10,000 mfd 16 volt or higher filter capacitor.
When replacing this capacitor it is NOT necessary to take the whole power supply apart! Just cut of the old capacitor off the power supply board, leaving the old cap leads as long as possible..."
-from http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/
Good
Museum
Problem:
# intake checklist
When we receive a machine, even when we're told it's perfect, we need to check it out and get it up to our standards. That's usually not hard, but there are a lot of small things.
As you go through this checklist, you will find problems. If they're obvious or if you're going to take care of them right away, there's no need to put them in a checklist. (But if you take care of things, make sure to mention it in the maintenance log.) For anything non-obvious that will be worked on later, put it in a to-do list.
## setting it up
- [x] match the legs with the corners; shorter in front, taller in back
- [x] stand the main cabinet up on its back
- [x] attach the front two legs, making sure they're snug
- [x] with two people, tip it forward so it's resting on its front legs
- [x] with two people, lift up the back and and put the pinball thing under it (the long way)
- [x] with two people, attach the rear legs, making sure they're snug
- [x] remove the pinball thing
- [ ] with two people, if the backbox is separate, put it on and bolt it down, making sure that the power cord will be free to be plugged in
## before powering on
- [x] clean out any loose parts and labels in cabinet and backbox, and put them in a quart ziplock labeled LOOSE PARTS
- [x] if there is a manual or other paperwork, put it in a 2-gallon ziplock
- [x] vacuum out the cabinet and backbox
- [x] check the power cord; if it is damaged, short, or ungrounded, replace it
- [x] use a multimeter to check that all 3 prongs are connected, especially the ground
- [x]check the wiring to the switch and main transformer
- [ ] check that all the fuses are present and the correct values
- [ ] look for damaged or burnt components
- [ ] if cables have been disconnected in the move, make sure that they are all back in their proper places
- [ ] look for loose/floating wires
- [ ] look for wires or wire bundles that rub or are at risk of getting caught when the playfield, backbox, or coin door are opened and closed
- [ ] look for loose or disconnected cables
- [ ] if necessary, untangle cables
- [ ] look for loose nuts, posts, etc
- [ ] look for circuit board damage (e.g., burning or corrosion from batteries)
- [ ] if it has batteries, replace them with fresh lithium ones
If you're pretty confident that nothing bad will happen, you're ready to plug it in and turn it on.
## first power on
* know where the fire extinguisher is
- [x] plug it in and make sure the magic smoke doesn't come out
- [x] be ready to immediately turn it off or unplug it
- [x] turn it on; watch for sparks or crackling; smell for smoke or melting
- [ ] look at
- [x] general illumination
- [ ] controlled illumination
- [ ] displays
- [ ] initial startup cycle
If it makes it through the startup cycle in good form, you're ready to start a game.
## first game
- [ ] replace the ball(s) with new ones
- [ ] start the game, adding credits if needed
- [ ] launch the ball and try it out
- [ ] look for
- [ ] smooth rolling
- [ ] all flippers working and strong enough to make key shots
- [ ] lights working
- [ ] switches working
- [ ] all active elements working
- [ ] ramps and wireforms are working well (not loose, not cracked, ball moves smoothly)
- [ ] correct sound (bells, chimes, audio, voice)
- [ ] correct displays (all digits on all positions work, displays work well and look good)
- [ ] switches properly gapped (e.g., slingshots fire correctly)
You will probably find some things to fix and adjust. Go for it. If you're working on a solid state machine, remember to never use metal tools while the machine is on.
## detail work
These will take a while, but they're worth doing well. Dirt is a major cause of playfield wear, which we want to minimize. And it's much easier to fix a problem now when the machine is in the workshop than later when it causes a problem for players on the floor.
- [ ] thoroughly clean the playfield and playfield elements
- [ ] replace any elastics that are worn or too dirty to clean
- [ ] check every bulb, possibly using a self-test
* if it's an LED but the machine came with incandescents, replace it (when in doubt, use a #47)
* if it's dim or flaky, try cleaning the socket and/or replacing the bulb
* replace #44s with #47s
* if it's dim and behind plastic, try cleaning both sides of the plastic and the bulb
- [ ] look for loose screws, missing post caps, and other things out of spec; if needed, search for photos showing what it looks like
- [ ] look for cracked or broken plastic elements; stabilize or replace
- [ ] check every switch, possibly using a self test
- [x] replace at least the coin door lock with our standard lock, text up, so that when it's locked the key slot is horizontal
- [ ] if the backbox lock is in good shape, you can just hang the key(s) on a hook inside the coin door (which you can make out of wire or a paperclip if there isn't one); otherwise, replace it with the standard one
- [ ] make sure the backglass doesn't rattle even when shaking the machine; if it does you may need to add tape or padding
- [ ] make the the backglass trim, if there is any, doesn't easily come off
- [ ] check the beer seal on the lockbar and replace as needed
- [ ] level the machine
## settings
If you haven't done it earlier, when appropriate makes sure the machine is set for:
- [ ] standard settings (for this, it may be easiest just to leave the machine off with batteries out for 30 seconds or so)
- [ ] free play
- [ ] correct number of balls per game (3 for solid state, 5 for EM)
- [ ] if it has a match mode, it should be on (doesn't matter for free play, but people like it)
- [ ] a reasonable volume level
- [ ] correct date and time
- [ ] connected to our wifi
- [ ] Insider Connected activated for our account
## final cleaning
Once everything internal is clean, safe, solid, and working well, it's time for a final cleaning.
- [ ] clean the legs
- [ ] clean the main cabinet
- [ ] clean the backbox
- [ ] clean the lock bar
- [ ] clean the backglass
- [ ] clean the playfield glass (do both sides, and wear gloves so you don't smudge it before putting it back)
## finishing up
- [ ] any significant work has been logged here or in a new log entry
- [ ] change the machine status to Good
Good
Museum
Problem:
Still needs some LED lamps and flashers replaced. They're on order.
Good
Museum
Good
Coin-op
Good
Museum
Good
Coin-op
Good
Museum
Good
Museum
Good
Museum
Good
Museum
Good
Museum