Got LED transmitter board working. To do: put capacitor on receiver board.
Details:
- All transmitter LEDs except #1 and #6 were failing or (in the case of the one Caleb removed) missing. I’m not sure if anyone had messed with LEDS 2,3,5 or 7, because several of these had been working just a couple weeks ago.
- Tested all resistors, all are perfect.
- Replaced LED #1 (the working but nonstandard one) + the missing LED #4, + all failing LEDs with original WPC-95 original specification LEDs. All are now transmitting well, see phone camera pics.
Note: our “PocketPD” DC power supply appears to be broken. At William’s suggestion I dug the extra fused bridge rectifier out of our “pinball electronics” box, and ran it to the right voltages using the big orange variac (see pics). This let me test emissions without having to be hooked up to the machine.
One of the LEDs that had been replaced last was shorted. The capacitor on the receiver board was bad. Removed both and need to order parts. We should probably change all the LEDs on the led board side (except the regular one). Phototransistors seem to test fine. Should not do anything to those until we get the right LEDs in.
Closed problem report
Disassembled plastic game playfield piece in launch ramp. I super glued a plastic washer at the top of the main playfield piece that sits against the right side of the ramp to hold the fastener in place. The second piece that sits on the left of the launch ramp had a small crack at the bottom that also allowed for movement, so I added a plastic washer to the screw hole at the bottom as well to prevent further cracking/breaking of the piece.
Superglued plastic washer onto game fixture where screw hole was broken to help keep screw into place.
Additional crack was developing at bottom of top fixture piece (closest to ball launch area), so I also glued a plastic washer on the underside to prevent additional cracking/ breaking of bottom screw hole.
Pic for last entry
Worked on the trough led emitter board
Replaced LEDs 5, 3, and 2.
5 and 2 are still not working (tough 4, trough 1) when plugged into the machine, but seem to test correctly on the bench, as do the resistors.
According to Brian log entry on 7/15: 5, 3, 2, and 1 were not working (trough 4, trough 2, trough 1, and top of trough optos)
Ben suspects maybe not enough power to the board in the machine.
Yara, Ken, DeShawn
Couldn’t get infrared camera to turn on but happily phone cameras are also somewhat sensitive to infrared. See pics. LED 5 for trough 4 is dead. I tested the opto sensor on the other side and it is fine.
It would make sense to replace this LED and also the other originals 2 and 3
